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My October Minerva Make – Sewaholic Robson Coat

October 28, 2014


Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat

Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat

This is the Sewaholic Robson Trench coat, which I have wanted to make ever since the pattern was released.  The pattern was kindly given to me by Simona in a pattern swap, and the fabric and notions were supplied by Minerva Crafts.  I chose a navy polka dot cotton canvas for the coat, and contrasting red buttons, red binding and red topstitching.  The canvas was a great choice for this coat – easy to work with but reassuringly weighty.  The fabric is only 45″ wide, so I ordered a whopping 6m, and used approximately 5.5m of it.

Sewaholic Robson Coat - back view

Sewaholic Robson Coat – back view

It took me about three weeks to make the coat, which is a long time by my standards.  There are a lot of pattern pieces – I think I had to cut out 29 pieces of fabric!  Just cutting the pattern and then the fabric and interfacing took me about five hours and I used two entire boxes of pins!

Welt pockets!

Welt pockets!

I made some changes to the pattern:

  • A lot of people in the sewing blogging community have made this coat, and on the majority of them I observed that the front storm flaps stuck out a lot, so I altered the pattern piece to take out some of that excess fabric, otherwise the flaps would have really annoyed me.
  • I underlined the sleeves (the lining fabric was from Leicester market and not supplied by Minerva).  I wanted the coat to slip on easily over whatever I wear.
  • I cut the interfacing so that it didn’t extend into the seam allowances around the collar.  I knew from having made shirts before that attaching the collar was going to get tricky, especially with such a thick fabric, so I wanted to reduce bulk wherever possible.
  • I bound my raw edges by sewing one side first and then the other, rather than folding it and sewing both sides in one go.  It took longer, but was easier to control and the results are better.  Incidentally, I ordered 15m of bias binding, and it was enough!  The pattern envelope calls for 12 yards, but I noticed a few bloggers saying they ran out, so I wanted to be sure I’d have enough.
  • I added a fourth button hole on the right front to match the left front because I’m a Libran and everything has to balance!
Flasher alert!

Flasher alert!

The construction of the coat, although time consuming, was not actually any more difficult than making a shirt.  Sewaholic patterns have always been amongst my favourites because Tasia’s instructions are so clear, and this pattern did not disappoint.  Part of what took so long in the making of this coat was the constant changing of threads: I had red topstitching thread, normal red thread for attaching the bias binding, and navy thread for actually putting the coat together.  I also had different machine settings for my topstitching (higher tension, longer stitch length), so I had to remember to change the settings, too.

Another back view - open

Another back view – open

I am really pleased with the finished garment.  The length is perfect for me.  It feels quite roomy, but it doesn’t look it on the photos so I think that’s a good thing.  The only thing I’m not sure about is the length of the sleeves – I’m not sure if they’re a bit too long.  If I decide they are, they certainly wouldn’t take long to alter, anyway.

Coat unbuttoned

Coat unbuttoned

This coat wouldn’t be much use in the rain, but for dry days it’s brilliant.  It’s the kind of coat that if I saw someone else wearing it, I’d be all :”Ooh!  I love that coat!  Where is it from?”.  I’m really proud of it.

  1. October 28, 2014 12:46 pm

    Great coat… I wonder if there’s something you could treat it with to make it water-resistant? I vaguely recall my (late) Dad – who was a Scout Leader; using some sort of liquid product to treat rain coats with! 🙂

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:30 am

      Good idea. Actually, I thought I would have had to treat the fabric before sewing it, I never thought of trying it after!

  2. October 28, 2014 12:56 pm

    It’s beautiful! My favourite Robson I’ve seen so far – it really suits you!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:32 am

      It is definitely very ‘me’! 🙂

  3. Carolyn permalink
    October 28, 2014 1:04 pm

    Wow, this is stunning! I love the combination of the polka dots and red topstitching, and your seam binding looks fantastic. Hopefully the sleeves won’t wind up being too long for you. I actually like a little extra length in sleeves so my wrists don’t get cold. 🙂 Congrats on a beautiful project!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:33 am

      Thank you! I wore it yesterday and the sleeves seemed ok so maybe I will leave them longer after all.

  4. October 28, 2014 1:20 pm

    Beautiful job!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:33 am

      Thank you!

  5. October 28, 2014 2:21 pm

    Wow!! Love the coat! (& your dress underneath!) The binding on the inside is such a beautiful finish – you deserve to be proud of this – great job!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:34 am

      Thanks. The dress is a Colette Peony I made last year.

  6. October 28, 2014 2:27 pm

    Very very smart coat!! I’m just starting a coat for my boyfriend so I completely understand what you mean about all the pattern pieces. I’ve just done the lining and I’m exhausted already!!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:35 am

      Ah, good luck with it then! Lining too, that’s a lot of work!

  7. October 28, 2014 2:28 pm

    You should be proud of it! It is lovely eye catching and gorgeous. The detail on it speaks of awesome sewing skills! Its on my radar now 😉

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:35 am

      I would fully recommend the pattern 🙂

  8. October 28, 2014 2:48 pm

    Woweee! That is truly a thing of great beauty! I love the red detailing: it just looks so smart!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:36 am

      Thanks. Red was definitely the right choice!

  9. October 28, 2014 2:52 pm

    Gorgeous! I love the navy/red combo!

    I don’t know if they have it by the same name there, but “camp dry” is what it’s called here, and it’s a spray that you use to make things waterproof. You might need a couple of cans, but I think it would be worth it in your rainy climate!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:37 am

      Thanks. I agree it would be worthwhile. I’ll look into it!

  10. October 28, 2014 3:12 pm

    Gorgeous! Well worth all the time spent.

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:38 am

      Thanks Kerry. It certainly feels like a big achievement!

  11. Carys permalink
    October 28, 2014 3:33 pm

    1.You look absolutely stunning in these pictures, seriously!

    2.Dayum, those DM’s. Every time!

    3. What a beauty of a coat.

    When people are talking about waterproofing (or showerproofing) you can buy Aquastop spray from the supermarket, or there’s a product called Nikwax that does it too. Or, I have read that Comfort (as in the fabric softener!) works incredibly well! Of all things.

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:41 am

      Thank you lovely lady! Actually these shoes are the Red or Dead ones but they are very similar to the DMs of glory 😉
      Thanks for the tip re: showerproofing. I shall look into prices!
      PS. Thanks again for the lippie which I am sporting in the photos xxx

      • /anne... permalink
        November 8, 2014 12:05 pm

        Drycleaners used to showerproof coats – maybe they still do?

      • tabathatweedie permalink*
        November 10, 2014 7:56 am

        Ooh, good thinking!

  12. October 28, 2014 5:11 pm

    Nice work, it looks very chic!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:41 am

      Thanks Sabs, I feel pretty good in it!

  13. stitchedupsam permalink
    October 28, 2014 8:24 pm

    Oooh, gorgeous! Lovely colour combination and the time you’ve spent on it shows, it looks beautifully made. On the waterproofing front, I’ve used Nikwax to “reproof” an outdoor jacket, so that might be worth looking into.

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:42 am

      Thanks for the recommendation! 🙂

  14. October 28, 2014 9:03 pm

    Absolute knock out! I love the red accents against the navy, I bet you’re wearing it a ton at the moment?!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:43 am

      I only finished it on Friday, but, yep! And I can’t help telling everyone: “I MADE THIS COAT!!!”

  15. anne carter permalink
    October 28, 2014 10:07 pm

    Brilliant! I love the fabric/style and all the detail.Congrats!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:43 am

      Thanks Anne!

  16. Barmy Beetroot permalink
    October 28, 2014 10:31 pm

    This is insanely brilliant! Please wear it on a local meet up so I can coo over it 🙂 You look fabulous x

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:44 am

      I will, I promise! 🙂

  17. October 28, 2014 10:52 pm

    This is the BEST Robson coat I have ever seen!! I love, love the navy dot fabric and accenting with red was genius! I may come and steal it….LOL!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:45 am

      Thank you! But please don’t steal it *installs tracking device* LOL

  18. October 29, 2014 3:47 am

    Your coat is magnificent! Like Sarah above said- the red accents are genius!!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:46 am

      Thank you! I wasn’t sure how well the topstitching would show up but overall I like the effect 🙂

  19. October 29, 2014 6:49 am

    This is amazing! I love the navy and red combination and good thinking with the storm flaps. Mine are a little bug and I’m thinking of tacking them down. You’ll get so much wear from this!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      October 29, 2014 8:52 am

      Thank you Claire. I love your version, too. Those hearts! I have a weakness for anything with hearts on it!

  20. October 29, 2014 12:55 pm

    Wowsers! This is amazing! I LOVE the top stitching and the red buttonholes – very Sherlock! 😉

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 1, 2014 8:33 am

      Thanks Lynne!

  21. October 29, 2014 5:32 pm

    What a truly amazing coat…I take my hat off to your patience… and I love all the touches of red

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 1, 2014 8:33 am

      Thank you!

  22. October 29, 2014 6:00 pm

    Sooooooooo good. What a beauty. I started mine last spring and then left it languishing for the whole summer….this is making me want to get back to it!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 1, 2014 8:34 am

      Ooh, you definitely should! 🙂

  23. October 30, 2014 6:15 am

    Lovely! I really like the contrast stitching.
    I have finished one of these recently too, but it has been too hot to photograph it for blogging!! I found it to be very roomy too and ended up taking it in over 4″ through the hips.

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 1, 2014 8:35 am

      Looking forward to seeing it!

  24. bimbleandpimble permalink
    October 30, 2014 7:52 am

    This is so lovely! What a classic shape and fabric! Epic win!!!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 1, 2014 8:35 am

      It is a classic!

  25. November 2, 2014 10:35 pm

    Oh my gosh it’s sooooo good. I’m not sure I can resist stealing it the next time I see you!!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 3, 2014 7:35 am

      I will have to keep it firmly belted in place then! 😉

  26. November 10, 2014 8:58 am

    Hmm, I somehow haven’t seen this pop up in my feed. So I’m a bit late 😉 What an amazing coat. I love the colors, the red top-stitching and the pure perfection of the whole look! Soo cool!

    • tabathatweedie permalink*
      November 10, 2014 2:21 pm

      Thanks Annika, I’m pleased with it.

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